A Three-Part Walking Tour
By Heather Wilson
Fall-Winter 2002


Aveil of mystery is part of Vallarta’s appeal. But to get some sense of what’s going on, get out there and take a good look around – after putting on your most comfy rubber-soled shoes and grabbing a “Lifestyles Pocket Guide” from your concierge. But where to start? With more than 120 neighborhoods to explore, all with unique character, the best place to “get your feet wet” is on the Malecon, in the heart of town.

Hugging the shoreline, this seaside walkway is where the health conscious kick start their day and people come to see and be seen at night. It’s a must-do, a quick way to soak up the town’s Latin flavor – particularly apparent on Sundays, the only day most Mexicans have off work. In the evening especially, lovers and families stroll this mile-long promenade hand in hand, kids in their Sunday best munching treats and holding colorful balloons afloat. Impromptu dancing has been known to happen after 6 pm, when the municipal band entertains in the Main Plaza beside City Hall, as it does Thursdays, too. And frequently there are free cultural events at the Los Arcos Amphitheater at the Malecon’s south end, beginning around 8 pm. (See the “Vallarta Voice” for listings.) And every night, soon after dark, a fireworks display lights up the sky from the offshore Marigalante, a re-creation of one of Christoper Columbus’ ships. Don’t worry about finding a place to get a drink, an ice cream cone or a meal. Along with a cluster of foods kiosks at the south end, just across the street is a wealth of dining, shopping and entertainment options.

Now, to explore the peaceful and beautifully landscaped Isla Rio Cuale, continue ahead three blocks – the last one being extra-long and curving before straightening out on the bridge. Enter the island via stairs under it, then check out the compact, but informative, museum of anthropology just a few steps toward the ocean. Stroll east and discover good restaurants, an open-air flea market, a multi-use venue where students of all ages and nationalities study plastic and performance arts and hold performances, and a statue dedicated to director John Huston – whose movie, “The Night of the Iguana,” and its attendant fuss put Vallarta on the tourist map.

Ready for the last leg of the walk? Cross the river and you’re in the South Side, which has an ocean promenade of its own on the popular Los Muertos Beach. You can take the northbound bridge on Insurgentes or the Ignacio Vallarta bridge where you entered, but it’s more fun trying to keep your balance on the swinging bridge that connects the island to Constitucion. Then walk west to the ocean.

The equivalent of eight blocks long, the promenade is chock a block with bars and restaurants ideal for people watching. And there’s always lots going on. Over morning coffee, the beach comes to life, locals jogging and walking their pets, and vendors setting up their wares. Afternoons, sun seekers take over, with several restaurants providing beach chairs for patrons. Yet, it’s in the evenings that this area really shines – providing front row seating for spectacular sunsets. Mariachis and other musicians heighten the experience, as do dolphins and whales from November through March.

Since no one around here gives a hoot about appearances, it’s a great place to let your hair down. And why not? That way you’re guaranteed stories to share when you get back home. And though your own two feet are the key to all of this, consider taking a load off by going parasailing and getting a bird’s-eye view.

For those staying north of town, begin the tour by catching any bus heading south that says “Centro” or “Olas Altas.” Just make sure it does not say “Tunel.” Have fun and enjoy the sights en route, because it will be obvious when it’s time to get off. you do so right after the bus makes its first turn, a left onto Jesus Langarica just past Parque Hidalgo. Then walk to the Malecon, just a block away at the landmark Hotel Rosita.

To return to hotels north of town from the Malecon, catch a bus on Juarez; from Isla Rio Cuale, catch one on Insurgentes; and from Los Muertos, your bus departs from the east side of Lazaro Cardenas Park on Pino Suarez. If you’re going to Marina Vallarta, you’ll need to catch your bus one block farther east at Lazaro Cardenas and Ignacio Vallarta.

For those staying south of town, reverse the order of the tour and start with the South Side promenade. Take the Mismaloya bus to its final stop at Constitucion and Basilio Badillo, then follow Basilio Badillo west three blocks to Los Muertos. To return to your hotel, take any bus south and return to Constitucion and Basilio Badillo, where you can catch the Mismaloya bus.