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PADRES
AND SWAMPLAND
By Gordon OHara Robbins
Franciscan or Dominican padres on our coast before Columbus time
and a Banderas Bay that was swampland less then 500 years ago? There
is evidence contained in the journals of Francisco Cortés de
San Buenaventura, the nephew of Hernan Cortés who led an expedition
exploring this region as far north as Mazatlan from 1523 to 1531, indicating
both these assertions are true.
Not true, say historians who acknowledge that Columbus was not the first
to discover the New World but maintain that earlier European-based voyagers
made the discovery.
Not true about the bay, say geologists and scientists who have studied
the topography of the ocean floor and the sea life here. There was an
upheaval here, they say, but not that recently.
Both true, say others, including descendants of the Indians who have
inhabited this region for over 2,000 years.
Walk to Yelapa in one day? Impossible! Yet this writer has been told
the journals of Cortés de San Buenaventura detail a 1531 trek
from the area of Punta de Mita to Yelapa across swampland and bogs in
just thatone day!
Cortés de San Buenaventuras journals are preserved in a
special collection at Bancroft Hall at the University of California
library at Berkeley and, while this writer has not seen them, others
who have assure me this is true. The journals supposedly record that
Cortés de San Buenaventura and his fellow Spaniards were guided
by horseback across this swampland by Indians wearing the brown robes
and sporting the haircuts of Franciscan or Dominican padres. When the
Indians were asked why they were dressed like that, the journals report
that they explained, . . . In the time of our forefathers pale
skinned men dressed like this came here and told us that if we ever
encountered pale skinned men in the future that if we were dressed like
this we would not be harmed. Carlos Mungia, Puerto Vallartas
official historian for several years, confirms one aspect of this: in
earlier times the Indians along the coast south of here were nicknamed
The Franciscans because of their garb and friar-like haircuts.
However, the time period in which they were given this nickname is uncertain.
The Indians led the Cortés expedition to the bay at Yelapa and
then inland along the El Tuito River to El Tuito, 46 kilometers south
of here on the Pan American Highway and today the principal city of
the Municipio de Cabo Corrientes. There Cortés was allowed to
set up headquarters and his soldiers began searching for the huge gold
and silver deposits believed plentiful in the vast mountain ranges of
the Municipio.
I have talked with natives of the remote villages of the Cabo Corrientes
coast who express surprise that the rest of the world is not aware that
the padres were here, probably as early as the 1360s. That is when authenticated
records show that Portuguese Dominicans launched Pacific Ocean exploratory
vessels from Indonesia. Some of these ships did not return and any Pacific
sailor will tell you that the prevailing easterly winds and currents
would carry such small vessels south through the straits of Borneo and
eastward, directly to the Cabo Corrientes coast.
Elders in one remote village, Aquilles Serdan, also told this writer
of icons and gold statues brought by the padres which have now been
hidden away because of a robbery from one of their churches seven years
ago. The elders believe the thieves were from Guadalajara.
If one lays out a map of our bay one fact becomes obvious. The actual
straight-line distance from Punta de Mita to Yelapa is only 16-18 kilometers,
an easy days march for mounted riders!
In the neighborhoods south of the Rio Cuale huge mangrove trees hundred
of years old can be found growing as far as 10 blocks inland, lending
further credence to the swampland assertion. Scuba divers will tell
you that the islands offshore here are really the peaks
of mountains that, at some point in the past, dropped below sea level.
There is additional evidence that some type of cataclysmic event occurred
in this region in the 1500s, although this applies to land further inland.
Mascota, a mountain pueblo on a plateau high in the Sierra Madres some
100 kilometers due east of Puerto Vallarta, was originally founded in
the early 1520s, according to documents in the possession of Dr. Alberto
Velasco in Tomatlan. Dr. Velasco says, and two Mascota residents from
old families have confirmed, that the first pueblo was destroyed by
a volcanic eruption and the pueblo relocated in the early 1540s. This
writer has visited the region several times and viewed evidence of ancient
lava flows.
North of here and somewhat inland in the state of Nayarit there is an
area known as Ceboroco where massive lava flows from a 1915
volcanic eruption can be viewed, according to local ecologist and businessman
Ron Walker.
Geologists and scientists do acknowledge that there is a hot spot
in the ocean inside the bay just 200 meters off Esteladeros beach near
Punta de Mita where University of Guadalajara scientists have recorded
water temperatures two degrees below boiling on the centigrade scale,
indisputable evidence of undersea thermal activity. At Ixtapa on the
northeastern edge of Puerto Vallarta there are hot springs, further
evidence of underground thermal activity here and at Compostella, on
the old road to Guadalajara, a dead volcano
is a tourist attraction.
The history of the Cortés exploration has been distorted by myths
and legends presented as truth in six books written by Friar Antonio
Tello in the 1560s about early Spanish exploration of this region. Modern
historians, including the well-known Herbert Mountjoy, criticize Tello
for overlooking factual information available in the letters and journals
of the explorers themselves. Yet much of what Tello has written is accepted
as truth today; whereas, the factual records gather dust in libraries
and archives here, in the U.S.A. and in Spain.
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