The Path Through GRINGO GULCH
By Heather Wilson
Summer-Fall 2005

The next time you find yourself gazing up into the hills of Gringo Gulch speculating about their secrets, why not do yourself a favor and go discover some of them? Getting even just a little bit off the beaten path can potentially transform a pleasant vacation into an exciting adventure in what is known as the world’s friendliest city.

Now you’re probably wondering, “How on earth do I get up there?” Well, in a town that does double duty as a big beautiful Stair Master requiring no user fees, dozens of staircases link steep zigzagging streets and act as pedestrian shortcuts, some meandering, others ladder-like, and many edged with charming casas, shops and restaurants.

So walking is the best, and occasionally the only, way to go. And keeping things simple, I suggest your initial foray begin from the town’s best-known point, the Main Square on the Malecon in front of the landmark Guadalupe church. In just two blocks and one flight of stairs from its south end, you’ll find yourself in the funky Rio Cuale ravine neighborhood, its name resulting from the many gringos choosing to live here over the past half century – including star-crossed lovers Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor.

Above the hustle bustle of El Centro, yet officially part of it, its romantically artsy aura rivals that of Old Europe’s most atmospheric village. And you feel it the instant you top the Zaragoza stairs.

Before pressing on, turn and soak in the bird’s-eye City Hall and ocean view, then note Hacienda San Angel (222-2692) to your immediate left at Miramar 336. A luxurious boutique hotel open to the public by reservation only for lunch and dinner in various wonderful ambiances, this masterpiece restoration of several classic Vallarta-style houses includes one that Richard Burton bought for another of his wives, Susan Hunt. (Obviously, he really loved this neighborhood!)

Progressing along Zaragoza toward Burton’s love nest with Liz at 445, now a bed and breakfast called Casa Kimberley and recognizable by its pretty pink bridge modeled on Venice’s Bridge of Sighs, the warmth of one-of-a-kind Old Vallarta-style homes with names like Mi Casa es Su Casa is apparent. And you’ll notice that many have discrete tiles indicating they were built by engineer extraordinaire Guillermo Wulff, who also built the movie set for “The Night of the Iguana” – which is what brought Burton here in the first place in 1963.

And should checking out Casa Kimberley from the street arouse your curiosity, just ring the bell and enjoy an impromptu half-hour tour in English, French or Spanish, Monday through Saturday between 9 and 6. Or if you prefer planning ahead, call 222-1336.

Next, right around the corner, a surprisingly steep, short stretch of cobblestones brings a roller coaster to mind, yet is easily navigable with sensible shoes. To your left, an intriguing river rock home with rounded corners is at the apex of Cuauhtemoc and Callejon Cuauhtemoc, the latter an appealing zany, six-foot-wide alley worth checking out.

Across the street overlooking the river, a pedestrian lookout offers an ideal picture-taking opportunity with gorgeous old trees on the Isla Cuale below and the town clinging to undulating mountains as far as the eye can see. And if you’re lucky, you’ll hear music drifting from the island’s active cultural center.

You might want to stroll a little further along the mixed bag of Cuauhtemoc, where lots of current construction juxtaposes with solid old homes boasting palapas, cupolas, arches, Talavera tiles and wrought iron, feats of architecture on lots one would think goats couldn’t even traverse. Peek in and you’ll see that many houses are open on one side to the great views and refreshing breezes. And take note of the whimsical house with the three-dimensional turtle and fish on its exterior and the postage stamp-sized tienda that sells cold drinks and phone cards you can use at the pay phone in front of it.

To avoid stairs on the way back, simply retrace your steps along Cuauhtemoc, which turns into Guerrero and leads you on a gently sloping surface to one block south of where you set out, passing art gallery Ocho y Mas and the popular Trio restaurant en route.

However, if it’s more adventure you want, return to Miramar and Zaragoza and take a twisty unorthodox set of stairs down to Guerrero, stately trees seemingly erupting through them. You’ll find ledges to rest on and restaurant Graffiti along one side. At their base, mountain biking and hiking tours can be arranged, and the flea market is just a block ahead.

Now, I would be remiss if I didn’t share one big secret: Wandering at will is perfectly okay, too, because you can always get your bearings just by looking west to the ocean.