November 15, 2003 - The tenderness was palpable
I live in Mexico because I resonate with its earthiness, life here more primal and soulful than up north. Despite that, it’s taken me a while to really appreciate how Mexicans remember their deceased family and friends on the Day of the Dead, celebrated the night of November 1.
Before understanding its symbolism, I found the associated imagery, such as dancing skeletons, uncomfortable, and asked myself why. And I came to realize that, in my culture, we mourn and give and receive condolences. But from then on – at least communally – an “out of sight, out of mind” non-response seems expected, as if keeping the memory of a loved one alive is kind of embarrassing.…
In contrast, altars remembering the dead are lovingly placed in Vallarta’s homes and businesses on this annual celebration of life, 70 of them materializing on the Malecon and more than a dozen at City Hall this year. All were unique and creative, some elaborate, one honoring a tiny boy, another young newlyweds.
The tenderness that went into these offerings was palpable and undoubtedly cathartic. And although I hadn’t known any of these people, each of them walked these cobblestone streets like you and I and contributed to the rich tapestry that’s our community.
I wish I had applied the motto “don’t put off until tomorrow what you can do today” when it came to taking a picture of the mammoth knot of tangled electrical wires above Libertad and Hidalgo. For years, every time I passed it I’d shake my head in amazement and plan to send it to Ontario Hydro for their newsletter, figuring it would give the staff a shock and a chuckle. But progress waits for no one. It was finally unraveled and hidden last week as part of the municipality’s promise to bury downtown electric lines.
Over the second weekend of November, the town’s population suddenly exploded. Our old friends the snowbirds are back and beaming ear to ear because of it. Cafés we residents used to have to ourselves are humming once again, as people catch up with one another and with what’s been going on here since they left last spring.
Asked whether the new bridge at the mouth of the Rio Cuale was still dead in the water, I realized I’d lost touch with its progress. Checking it out, I can now say that it’s far enough along there’s no way it’s not going to happen – but there’s no point asking for another official date of completion. My guess is not before Christmas. Linking the Malecon and the Los Muertos walkway, it certainly will make for a pleasant, mile or so oceanfront walk.
This is such a great month to be here. Along with annual golfing and fishing tournaments, the 7th Annual Puerto Vallarta Festival of the Arts is in full swing with 50 cultural and sporting events taking place around town November 7 – 23, all free of charge. With offerings ranging from sacred choir music to violin concerts to book presentations, there’s something to appeal to everyone. A word to the wise: If the tango music and dance show returns from Argentina next year, don’t miss it. Held spellbound by its sophisticated color, skill and eroticism, I’m hoping for a front row seat next year.
A lot of effort has gone into making the Homage to John Huston film festival a reality and, hopefully, the lead in to next year’s international film fest. Highlighting seven of his most classic films, including “The Night of the Iguana” filmed here in 1963, it runs November 22 – 29 with free films nightly at 8 pm.
The 9th Festival Gourmet, with 23 restaurants hosting guest chefs from around the world, opened with a big dinner party at one of the few places large enough to hold all us “foodies,” the Corona beer factory. From November 13 to 23 we’ll be enjoying new international specialties, the best of which will linger on menus after the festival.
If you have any comments, questions or suggestions about what you’re reading, you’re encouraged to let me know at heather@mexmags.com.

