 The town of Talpa located in the mountains about 115 km or 71 miles from Puerto Vallarta, has a huge influx of special visitors each March. Pilgrims (peregrinos in Spanish) come to pay homage to Our Lady of the Rosary of Talpa throughout the year, however they arrive by the thousands every March.
St. Joseph's Day is celebrated on March 19, yet this significant religious holiday also has nine days of mini-celebrations prior to the official date. In Talpa the celebration begins on the first Sunday in March, when the pilgrims from Tecoman, Colima walk into town. Tecoman is roughly 270 highway miles or 435 km from Talpa. People arrive via chartered buses, private automobiles and on horseback or bikes, but the healthiest and the most faithful come by foot.
The peregrinos often travel along the highway, but may also choose to follow the river up from the coast and sleep on ranchers' verandas along the way. A fit person can make the journey in three days from Puerto Vallarta, spending only two nights in the open, while groups with children or more elderly adults, will take longer to get to Talpa.
Backpacks are filled with the minimum of items such as matches for building a fire and warm blankets for the chilly night air. There are no hotels or restaurants along the river route, but many enterprising ranchers use this opportunity to earn a few extra pesos. Peregrinos can usually buy a hot bowl of soup at night and a cup of coffee, tortillas and beans before heading off the next morning. This is a challenging hike, with natural obstacles such as mountains, huge boulders and rivers, so comfortable footwear is a must.
The particular walk has become such an important tradition, that some local families will take the bus a few miles out of Talpa and then walk back into town, in order to introduce their children to this ritual. Many fathers take their young sons further down the road to walk back, spending the night in the countryside.
Dancers dressed in indigenous costumes dance along the streets and perform rituals in the plaza. Booming fireworks are shot off early in the morning, to awaken people for the first mass of the day. There is a local belief that fireworks will "scare the devils away."
Many visitors buy a Talpa Walking Stick to serve as a souvenir and also as a sign to others, that they have made the pilgrimage. The town itself takes on a fair like atmosphere and there are a large variety of souvenirs for sale, many printed with images of The Virgin.
Talpa is tranquil traditional town and makes a lovely day or weekend getaway from Vallarta, whether you come for this festival or anytime throughout the year. The mountain scenery en route is spectacular and traveling along the new highway makes the trip faster and easier than ever before.
A great way to explore Talpa and the neighboring town of Mascota, is to take a day tour hosted by Roberta Valdez, to benefit Make-A-Wish Mexico. The tour leaves Vallarta at 7:00 a.m. and transportation is via a deluxe highway cruiser. Enjoy coffee and snacks on the way and arrive in Mascota about two hours later, for a delicious buffet breakfast. After a great meal, take some time to tour this traditional town, known for it’s great cheese and honey. Arrive in Talpa in the early afternoon and visit the church to see the Virgin "Rosario of Talpa," a small statue that is said to have healing powers. Enjoy the afternoon touring a local museum and shopping at the plaza. Local products include guava roll candy and delicious coffee. The bus returns to Vallarta about 7:00 pm. For reservations and information, call Roberta Valdez at (322) 293-7534 or email robertamakeawish@aol.com. By Cynthia Beare
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