The closest towns of any consequence to Puerto Vallarta, both Bucerías and La Cruz de Huanacaxtle offer a great opportunity to check out a much smaller Mexican town with a lot less traffic. Bucerías features what is by far the longest beach on the bay, excellent eateries of all descriptions, including dozens of funky palapa restaurants right on the beach, a lively main square, art galleries, an open-air flea market and an old-fashioned festive feel some of the reasons why the expatriate community is growing in "The Place of the Divers." Known for freshly shucked, giant oysters and other sublime seafood, there's a diversity of cuisines available, vegetarian and gourmet international among them. The shallow shoreline appeals to families, tentative swimmers, and shell collectors, everyone enjoying lots of space to do their thing. Sundays are busier than usual, folks from Puerto Vallarta and elsewhere spending the day on the beach, enjoying cold beer and fresh shrimp before heading home at dusk.

"La Cruz" has its own share of small shops and restaurants, unpretentious accommodations and burgeoning music scene. The main square overlooking the ocean is a good place to soak it all in, while watching fishermen mend their nets. Little known to foreign tourists until recently, life in this rustic fishing village still meanders at a leisurely pace, but the town is in a state of flux. Still small-town Mexico to be sure, it is presently being energized by a world-class marina with slips for 400 boats, a seaside promenade, outdoor theater, condominiums, shops, restaurants and more that will draw international attention. And luxurious residential communities are springing up to cater to the increasing numbers of North Americans who have already discovered.